Friday, 30 January 2015

What a nice camera



Bolex H16 Reflex Camera

I borrowed the Bolex from college on a couple of occasions before using it to film, in order to perform test loads, familiarise myself with it and to record a demo of it being loaded with film, which I shall upload once editing is complete. The loading mechanism is a quality piece of engineering as it virtually loads itself. It’s a really nice camera.


After having to put off a couple of planned trips out to film shots, when I finally got out it was a dry but gloomy day. I thought that since it had a macro lens on it I should do some macro shots. I filmed small objects in the house before venturing outside with the camera and taking a walk to Albert Park. I took some bread for the ducks to tempt them closer for as few shots and then planned to walk through the avenue of trees which run through the centre of the park which usually looks lovely at any time of year to the fountain and out the front gates by the Dorman Museum. In practice I didn’t get as far as the fountain before my film ran out (which they turned off as I got there anyway).

Colour Development - 50ft 16mm (Kodak Vision3 250D)



The Avenue of Trees - Albert park (shot - cloudy setting sun)


 At the same time that I bought the B+W chemicals I also bought a C41 processing kit. Many are available with simplified chemical formulas. I chose the Rollei Digibase C41 Maxi kit. Whilst It says that there is a 2.5ltr working solution there is only enough stabiliser to make up 1ltr, needed to fill the developing tank. The 1ltr kit will only give you half the amount you require (the stabiliser will outlast the other chemical in its useful working life). This kit is good as it can process at 25°C but makes the process time longer (again more controllable for a novice) unlike other kits that must be processed at much higher consistent temperatures only the mixing of the chemicals must be carried out at a higher temp of 49°C. To process the C41 I had to change the lab setup from the established B+W process previously used.

Pretty winter Roses

Since temperature was an issue I insulated the chemical water bath with a thick layer of waste bubble wrap and sat it on a sheet of polystyrene insulation. The film tank must also be sat in a water bath to keep it up to temp during processing, I sat this on top of the chemical water batrh to keep heat in the bucket and escaping heat would help to warm the tanks water bath and so also the tank.
As this seemed like wetter experience than the B+W process  I decided to place the whole setup in the large storage box being used to help control spillages. Following from my experience with the B+W with waiting times I started warming things up first thing. I loaded one of my 50ft colour films into the dev tank and got the ‘dark room’ out of the way. I organised myself and proceeded measure out the chemicals to make 1ltr solutions and to mix them up once I achieved the 49°C in the kitchen sink. First to go into the heated water are the parts A, B and C compnents of the developer and they are mixed together next you asdd the starter which kicks off the chemical reaction to develop.This is the developer mixed. I placed this into the large bucket water bath with the stop bath, the Borax solution and the required number of rinses needed to run the full process.

Greedy Swan


Next I mixed up the bleach, then the fixer and then the stabiliser all of which were also placed in the water bath. Once the chemical bath is down to 25°C the process can begin, the Lomo tank is placed in its water bath of 25°C and is filled with a prewash of water to soften the film and warm everything up to temperature for 3mins before being drained. Now the developer can be poured into the tank at 25°C for 13mins agitating every 30secs. I emptyed the tank into my used developer bottle and filled it back up with a stop bath (optional) before a wash bath for 3mins and drain. I refilled the tank with my bleaching solution for 6mins agitating for 15sec constant and then every 30sec thereafter. This was emptied and refilled with a water bath for 3mins. Next goes in the fix for 7mins and agitate every 30sec empty and wash again for 3min. now I added the borax solution leave in tank for 15min agitate for the last 5mins empty and wash the film again. The tank can now be safely opened, I emptied  the film into a bowl added water and a little wetting agent which aids washing off the remjet. I found  a film end and fed the film into another bowl as I went along cleaning from one end to another filled with clean water,  this id the final wash before the stabiliser. I emptyed the final rinse and then emptyed the stabiliser into the bucket making sure that the film was covered in it for 1.5 mins. 

X-right colour checker
Plastic Duck

















Upon inspection the negative looked good but I placed it onto the drying rack and left it to fully dry before looking at it under the scanner…Wow the images and colours look great. There are a lot of fluffs that have got into the scan bed that can be seen, but the images look good. I really expected it to go badly as a first attempt and am really pleased with the results. I am looking forward to processing more.


Developing Black and White film - 25ft Double 8 & 50ft 16mm (Kodachrome)



Standard 8 - test film 1
Test film 1



















Having made the decision to purchase B+W chemistry I looked online for suppliers and came across First Call. Whilst I had used ID11 in the college darkroom and read a lot about the Rodinol formula (rodinol was an Agfa product which is no longer manufactured). I finally plumbed for first calls own brand developer and fix which were economically priced. I also bought Kodak photo flow and some stop bath as I thought that this might make snip tests faster by performing multiple tests in the Dinky Dark Room at the same time in open trays and placing the snips in the stop bath at the appropriate time.
I had filmed and demonstrated the Lomo tank loads and Bolex loads and the majority of the Dinky Dark Room manufacture myself but I required help to film an intro for the Dinky Dark Room and iwanted to document the B+W processing but keep my attention on the job in hand to allow me to concentrate on the task without filming to consider. I made arrangements with Kyle who had been good enough to offer his help if necessary previously, to come over at the weekend and give me a hand.

Standard 8 - Test film 2
Standard 8 - Mystery film - Glastonbury
Double 8 again?
It had occurred to me that my judgement on the double 8 film I had tried to develop in college may have been incorrect. I wondered if the snips that I had taken from the film could have been just the leader as due to the film being ran through the camera twice that the snips may have been just from the leader required to load it and therefor fully exposed to light. I thought that it was worth trying again. The developer and fixative where mixed up to the lowest recommended ratio which slows down the chemistry and would make the situation more controllable for a first attempt (there are also obvious economic considerations). These were placed in a large bucket that was going to be the water bath. Snip test strips were cut from several films (if the double 8 failed again I wanted to process some colour stock tests in B+W to check the process being used was working) making sure to cut past any leader that may be present and made the ‘dark room’ ready with trays to develop them. Once again waiting for the correct temperature took an awful long time and slowed down the experiments.
Processing

Mystery film - Glastonbury

Once at temperature we began the snip test development with the same double 8 film as used in college following the instructions on the bottle concentrate along with the basic process used in the college film developing room. I had to keep my hands inside the sleeves of the box once started in order to prevent light from entering the box and spoiling the tests. Once complete with no real idea of what to expect the box was opened. I’m sure we both had a look of joy on our faces as on the snips, image cells could quite clearly be seen.
upon this the other snip tests were abandoned and I set about loading the Lomo tank with the rest of the same film. This was the first time that the tank had been genuinely loaded with film to be developed, due to my test loads it was a straight forward process in the dark room box which was then set aside and the film tank was placed inside the large under bed box. We ran through the process once again, with the full tank. The used Borax came out of the tank black from the remjet, so did the rinse water and also the developer. The fix didn’t. Chemicals should be removed from the tank in anticipation of the timer going off. Ideally the timer should be going off as the next liquid is entering the tank. Upon removing the lid of the tank once complete the remains of the remjet could be seen on the film. The reel was opened and the film emptied into a bucket of water to be washed across its length by hand. The remjet removal was not a big problem and should not be seen as the daunting task that it has been made out to be, it’s just another step to take if you want to develop motion film. It does not need to be scrubbed as was commented on a forum. Once clean it was given another wash including wetting agent and hung to dry on a clothes rack. The images could be seen over the full length of the film. I think both me and Kyle were buzzing by this point. Upon inspection of the film ends under the scanner the images appeared quite grainy  but my brother and nephew could clearly be seen. Kyle had been over my house for twelve hours at this point but it was a good end to a long day for both of us.

Kodak Brownie  8mm movie camera 2
Shot - test film 1 & Mystery film
Meopta admira 8f - Test film 2
 The following day
I got up and set about developing the other test double 8 that I had shot on the Meopta camera. Using the same process as before only increased the development time by 30sec as recommended online, I developed the second film. This also developed fine although I preferred the images that the Brownie gave better.
Following the second success I immediately followed on by developing my mystery double eight film that started this whole film development thing off. Again the processing went without a hitch the film that came out of the tank was the best yet. Well exposed and looking like…real negative. I could not work out the images on the fil itself. It wa not until the film was under the scanner that the mystery was solved . It was of Glastonbury as I had originaly thought, I just didn’t remember shooting two films there. Excellent!

Test film 1

B+W 16mm
Processing the two films took the day up and that night feeling on a role I set about developing the colleges own mystery film 16mm film left in the Donated Bolex. I worked on this into the night, and only when the tank was opened did it reveal its secret…it was blank. There were  some images of something (maybe the camera rolling with no lens?) at the very end which proved that it had developed fine. This was a let down. The other half of the film is still there to be developed but judging from the second half of the film I wont be getting excited about it soon. Once again  the actual process went off without a hitch.


                                               
16mm - On the rack drying and Scanned image

Tele-Cine/Scan

Film scanner - 22MP scans slides (positive) and negative



I have performed telecine from a standard projector against a screen a couple of times before with ok results but I know that this is not the the way to get the best images from the film.
I have previously researched converting my Eumig projector into a telecines machine using a condensing lens and a first surface mirror with minor (and a couple of major) modifications. The images in the converted footage from the guide I found looked fantastic. This however would only convert 8mm footage and I am looking to also process 16mm. I could though use the lens and mirror with a standard 16mm projector without much issue at 24fps (as to capture 18fps the most used super 8 frame rate without flicker in the final image, it needs to be adjusted to run at 16.66fps) . The only real issue would be having to crop the image again once telecines has been performed making the image smaller than it should be or is capable of being.
I had a lot of trouble locating an appropriate condensing lens, the first surface mirror I could make if necessary. During this time hunting I by chance came across a film scanner that can scan slides 35mm 110mm and Super 8 positive and negative images.
 http://www.amazon.co.uk/7dayshop-Resolution-Portable-Scanner-Negatives/dp/B00QFGZ1KC
 It has a 22 megapixel sensor, the sample images looked very good (these of course will be of slides the largest image it can scan). It seemed strange to me that if it could scan super 8, why could it not scan standard 8 which obviously it must be able to. I did some quick research into the width of 110 film which I found was 16mm. A scanner able to scan 8mm 16mm and 35mm seemed like a great idea and so after some deliberation I ordered one. It has no form of film feed which would make it too good to be true. But ultimately I will look to automating it. I have removed the film claw mechanism from a broken super 8 camera and hope to construct a super 8 drive mechanism for the scanner from it. for now it will be great for saving instant positive previews of the negative images.

Test scan with Super 8 colour reversal film.

Projected telecine definition (recorded HD AVC)

Scanner definition (no colour correction)